explore new routes in Tierra del Fuego (Chile) and the Chilean mainland provinces of Ultima Esperanza (Puerto Natales), Magellan (Punta Arenas)
Towards Christmas we were very far south on the road. We wanted to explore some new routes south of Punta Arenas and Tierra del Fuego. Also, the Torres del Paine National Park we had to check because there had been a lot of rainfall. Had particularly surprising is that the Rio Serrano has held a very high water level of Lago Grey and had achieved absolute high-water level. The trail over the dam to the peninsula, which had now become the island had to be locked. The disappointment of many visitors was great, for the highlight just not easy. Ice floes were almost none available. Everything was apparently melted already. It was way too warm for the season. So we could only hope that by February improve the situation would return, because we wanted to finally not on the whiskey on the rocks with ancient glacial ice, together with our guests without.
fire country now has a few kilometers of new routes to the Beagle Channel on the Chilean side. Some Chileans were already there, as we had been variously reported. So we could not make it, this auszukunden. Because this would be for future tours in the extreme south is very attractive, especially because the Chileans from the north shore of the Beagle Channel by ferry to Puerto Williams plan as soon as the road is completed.
By Lago Deseado, we have advanced from last year and this time we continued on another pass to the Lago Fagnano west bank. Only 10 km are still separated from the nearest fjord, but the construction workers could not happen to us. There were still blasting work in progress. The high street is conducted on the northern shore of Lago Fagnano with fantastic view points to the west, south and east. The first chain of the Cordillera Darwin was already visible. The traces of the new road under construction in the southern shore of Lago Fagnano, we could also be perceived. We are curious how far we can go next year.
So we went after a few days back on the mainland. Another route we wanted to explore, which is also planned to expand and provide a direct service to Puerto Natales is the fjord. From the south, yet was under construction, but from side Puerto Natales direction South well. A new well-fortified road leads through the forest, past the lake and Anibal Pinto colored lagoons, with huge bright colors in all the peat fields (turbal) Obstruccion the fjord. We were able to go to the abandoned Estancia Maria Sofia. Then the track was all over the beach next to the Estancia Rio Blanco. With Fidi's weight, this was not a recommended method. Thus, we further explored the area on foot. As soon as this track will be completed, we will do well this sensational area accessible to our guests.
As with salmon fishing in the Rio Serrano (Torres del Paine National Park) due to high water level there was nothing going on (the banks were still almost flooded), we moved further north into Baguales Mountains, where we fish a place to know a long time. We were there so successful that we had to freeze a few pounds salmon. Perhaps we would not be making globetrotters who like to eat salmon. It was then that way. Los Noldis (Noldi, Silvie & Children Anouk and Djamila) with the pick-up camper MAX cavorting already in the area, as we heard from some e-mails and text messages. The appointment was set. Punta Arenas, Tres Puentes Copec gas station. Where so were two very similar vehicles, was looked stupid even for Chileans. Wave-wave everywhere. To the southernmost point of the American continent, we are certainly not come, however, almost to the Cabo San Isidoro, which is located only 33 Wanderkilomerter before. After a short river crossing was then our camp on the Rio San Pedro. were collected by-jargon about Ford Superduty F350 and Bigfoot Camper wood, chop saw, make a campfire, hiking, and just eat salmon announced. Anyone interested in the details of this bustle, this can be read on Noldis blog dated 02/24/2009 http://syno.romandie.com below "Druids Arts.
Tour Patagonia South-North in February 2009
Soon it was February and we made the final preparations for the upcoming tour. After midnight we picked up our guests at the airport in Rio Gallegos. The report was announced and we could anything bad on the next morning, the dry to take Route 40 to the Chilean border to the dogs.
Puerto Natales was how often cloudy, but the direction of Torres del Paine sunny. We were curious to see if the water level of the Rio Serrano was now fallen, and whether the dam to the peninsula on the Lago Grey was passable again. A super view of the Paine Massif and the Grey Glacier announced a nice evening. But even from the vantage point on the Rio Serrano we noticed that the water level was increased. The camp was partly flooded and been closed for security reasons. So we also had to go further north to the campsite in the park. The next day at the Lago Grey we had but luck. The dam was released and many ice floes had pushed all the way into the area. Our Whisky on the Rocks with million-year-old ice was secured.
The Laguna Azul at the northern end of the park was on high. The camp, however, is high enough and was not threatened. The View of the Torres del Paine was unique with an almost indescribably intense fiery red sunset sky. Wild geese, lapwing and guanacos cavorting on the Laguna. Our Asadito (barbecue) was also secured.
The next day, showed gray clouds, and Torres had been placed under a blanket.
Calafate was once again on the windy side. But despite the wind, gray clouds hung in the Andes. But the ice boulders on the Perito Moreno glacier were still not enough.
The absolute adventure, however, began in El Chalten at the foot of Fitz Roy. Even from the Route 40 from we could see that Fizi not want to show. The next day the rain would not stop until lunch time. But then the sun came but by something else. The hike to Lake Capri and Torre glacier was still possible. Fizi showed only his flanks. The weather forecasts promised for the coming days nothing unusual except a few showers. It should then, however, are different.
early morning we started on the south bank of Lago Desierto to reach the boat to the north shore. The initially slight shudder went slowly over in heavy rain. On the north bank of the trek went off for our guests. On horseback, they should leave at noon. With 4 hours delay came at the Guia ordered horses. After 6 hours, reached our guests the Estancia Candaleira Mancilla (Chile) Lago O'Higgins, to take the next day the boat ride to the tidewater glacier O'Higgins in the lake and the trip to Villa O'Higgins. How could we learn later, was the otherwise normal-propelled boat for days not at sea because of strong storms. Already many people were here, especially stranded cyclists. The ranch was in danger of bursting at the seams.
We had to Fidi as planned, the bypass on Route 40, Paso Roballos, Cochrane, Puerto Yungay to Villa O'Higgins drive (1000 km) because there is no road of Lago Desierto (Argentina) to Villa O'Higgins ( Chile is).
Also we should do our miracle! Already on the Ruta 40, we had hurried, since black rain clouds are constantly pursued. We drove up into the night and spent the night just before the Argentine / Chilean border. Even at dawn storm and wind gusts up there was over 100 km / h. Where I left at the customs clearance the customs house, got me such a strong gust that my glasses the nose blowing. About 20 meters down we had found my glasses again (all policemen who participated in the search!) Unfortunately, the frame was slightly bent and had to be bent.
Later on the Carretera Austral, it was then no longer wind and the rain was at first also. In Cochrane, we bought one for 4 days - we had probably had a good nose.
Today we wanted to drive a bit of the Mediterranean and reach the next day, Villa O'Higgins. In the evening, the visibility was very good on all the surrounding mountains and glaciers. In the night it began to rain, however. So we made our next Day also early on the south. We came only to the Rio Baker, for what lay before us, no road, but a canal was full of water through the jungle. Over time, some four-wheel drivers joined us. There was considerable debate about the depth of water, any holes, currents, and especially as the other end and the advancement of the "street" probably should look like. We knew it because I had already explored before, the situation in rubber pants and sandals. I came only about 50 meters away, then I was already on the water mid-thigh - clearly too much for Fidi and the other four-wheel drivers stranded here was too much. So we could at least not now proceed. We spent the waiting time fishing on small streams where the fish had fled appear before the strong current of the flood. Rolf was successful and drew a 58 inch brown trout from a deep place of a small yet clear stream. For only us 2 would become too much for dinner, so we have frozen fillets, so that our guests should get something like this. The rain had subsided and it was at night a little brighter. Even the sun came through at times.
The next morning we left early. At 8 clock we were again at the point where it had gone no more day before. The water level had fallen so far that The road was partially visible again (small islands in the channel). Rolf wanted to know and waded through the whole distance. At the other end of the flooded road (300 m) a pickup swam up to the roof in the water. There are no drive-through was possible. We did a water level marker to monitor the speed of the falling water level better. We needed another 20 cm less water depth, then it might work. Per hour, the level fell by 4 cm. So we could go through another 5 hours waiting. We decided to go back to Cochrane (100 km) to bring more weather conditions in experience and not least our guests in Villa O'Higgins to inform. Back in Cochrane, we were really at Globetrotter, cyclists and other tourists inundated with questions, such as the street would look like and where exactly would the interruption. The local authorities apparently knew nothing exact. Some calls, internet, shopping and filling up again. So we moved again in the afternoon going south to the critical point. Now the road was again a little more visible. Just so we made the water crossing, but it was by now become almost 17 clock. The last ferry across the fjord Mitchell drove from Puerto Yungay clock at 18.00 - a Chilean military settlement with nothing other than a road builder camp, a few cabanas as Emergency shelter for thousands of tourists and beach to the camp. Unfortunately, we missed the ferry by 10 minutes. So we had to take an overnight stay here again in purchasing. The rain had unfortunately used again and kept getting stronger. All night there was torrential down. Good cheer, we set the next morning with the first ferry by 10 clock of the fjord, which resembled a brown broth. The Rio Bravo also had high water. We just managed the most critical points along the river, the water depths were increasing even at knee depth trend. The cars were left all - including some pick-ups did not dare. From the steep mountains poured huge waterfalls, some of which sprayed on the road. Was the great flood? It rained on pretty heavily. As locals reported that was the fifth consecutive day of heavy rain - this would be since they settled here never happened (some settlers are already over 30 years here).
still separated us from our goal of a passport Villa O'Higgins. But there were also many rivers. And it came as it should - the Rio Colorado has also burst its banks and the road was simply gone about 100 meters. Strong currents prevailed. Just the thought of a trial would have been fatal. Rolf looked at the water depth, was used because of the strong current not far away. In any case, the road more than 1 meter under water. Our guests at Villa O'Higgins had to be patient, because our arrival there was late again determined by 1 day. It was then still different. On the line here, we saw another camp on the Rio Bravo Globetrotter. Since we had always wait for the lower water level, we planned to drive the route again to get to him. We met the Unimog vehicle then too. As they were traveling north, I gave a statement about our late arrival, that they might make in Puerto Yungay in the street farmers to have radio Villa O'Higgins can be informed. As we could learn later, however, the Unimog was not further north.
We drove back to the flooded site on the Rio Colorado. The water level seemed to fall, because some stones were visible in the water. The road was washed away revealed. Rolf felt his way with sandals and rubber pants through the post. On the other side was an elderly man who had just around the next hill his small settlers cottage. He was still a large stone with pick and crowbar from the road, so the ramp from the river was free. He also tried to explore the state of the situation. Trust with his boots but not the water.
was after 5 hours waiting time decreased the level where there was no flow over the road and the remains were barely visible. After us, no cars had gotten through, apparently got stuck behind all the point on the Rio Bravo.
road was here now announced. broaden stones and drag out the remnants (half track) to the extent so that could happen Fidi: Vialidad Suiza in action. And a huge stone had to be pushed away. After 1 hour we had made it. Fidi cautiously groped on the set stones. Done. Now there were a few miles to Villa O'Higgins. It was now has become again 17 clock. The rain had stopped now thankfully. But there was a dam on the south shore of Swan Lake, about 10 km from Villa O'Higgins. Fortunately, this was not completely flooded, but even now not much was missing. By 19 clock we were the only one on this day in Villa O'Higgins, one in the sunshine. Fidi came through! We have three days from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins used (230 km). Here are stuck tourists looked puzzled us for some and wanted to immediately learn the latest status of us.
Just arrived in the village square, we met our guests already on the go just walk were what was during the last 48 hours due to heavy rain was no longer seem possible. However, they were well accommodated in the rented cottage. Also the boat trip to the glacier on Sunday they were able to experience the most beautiful weather with no wind. The tour was now one day late, but we were able to catch up again easily.
In Pisco Sour (Chilean national drink), we then introduced the Fish smoking. The Giants had fillets well be eaten eventually. All had to tell a lot about the events of recent days since our guests to trek from Lago Desierto to Villa O'Higgins were broken.
Now rain was initially not in sight. We started early the next morning. We wanted to reach Cochrane today, we would have caught up late again. But it was different. Even after the pass on the Rio Colorado, where we had been waiting a day before, proclaimed dark black clouds of continuous rain. The water level of the Rio Colorado had now fallen back to normal, our site is still intact and was able to bounce Fidi it. The difference in water level since the previous day was here about 5 m. One could imagine it no longer, as it was, where the river the road was covered knee-deep and had a strong current prevents any passage.
It was getting darker. The falls were growing again. The level of the Rio Bravo as well. Throttle, so we can come. We made it to the first ferry at 10 clock. Once in Puerto Yungay, we have witnessed from Fährmeister that the road would be interrupted by Cochrane and all the tourists would have to Tortel. Yes, there we were, too, but we were on the same day to Cochrane on. No, it was neither allowed to determine how we will soon.
It was raining now only slightly. Fidi led again to the whole column. So we were the first to be flooded the site of the road after Tortel. Water depth 1 m. Aborted sale of the road 60 cm. Right and left, only water. One is blocked. They all turn and look forward to Cochrane. But after a further 20 km after the turnoff to the Cochrane Rio Baker had come over the banks came that the road was more than 1 m under water and the huts of the settlers were in the water. It was even worse than on Sunday. So were here so about 10 pickups, 5 cars, 1 truck, 1 Unimog and Fidi trapped. The road building machine was ready. It rained only slightly. The water level seemed to drop - but very slowly. Evacuation boats were out on the Rio Baker. Helicopter explored from the flood area from the air. An evacuation boat put on us too. Soon we'll have with the evacuation of leaders agreed that they take our 3 guests to Tortel. We wanted to stay with the Fidi, because it threatened yet another danger. A glacial lake, which had formed in the Campo de Hielo Norte, was crowded shortly before. Should break the ice dam, which would have meant that the Rio Baker would be increased for a short time again for 2 meters. We were instructed by the evacuation of troops to take all vehicles with an elevated position. Our guests and some settlers were then picked up after 2 hours by a boat and taken to safe Tortel. Tortel threatened on this day at the seams to burst, since tourists away and could not evacuated settlers and tourists came to New. Our guests were from the tourist office Tortel mediated by a comfortable hostel.
We our overnight stay, based on a 50 m elevated position with the Globetrotter (Unimog), whom we had met the previous day on the Rio Bravo. A clear river promised fish. But the current was very strong. I tried it anyway. soon had a large trout turn, could these strong because of the current draw, unfortunately not on land. Too bad. The trout had won.
The next morning it looked weather is quite good. The sun was shining and only residual clouds were afraid to come near. The mountains were snow until well into the jungle. We first wanted to explore the site at the Rio Baker, whether to get through there were possible today. The digger driver was with his yellow monster on its way. The water level had fallen so far that the road to 50% was visible again. We wanted to test out there and drove through it. It was glutschte, but still quite nice on the doors. We met a Belgian who had stayed at the road camp. It was yesterday evening wading through the river - this would only be in T-shirt and bathing suit (water temperature about 16 degrees) and his wheel was like a boat, since the waterproof Sacoche as floats would have appeared. He would then dried again and everything was going to continue.
Shortly later we were back at the fork for Tortel and drove up to the point where we had to turn around yesterday. The excavator was still not in sight. The water was decreased, but the break-off point had to be excavated. Instead of waiting idly by Rolf put the shovel ever go and I went walking in sandals and rubber pants to explore the further condition of the road. I took the radio and to communicate with Rolf can. There were some passages that were still under water, but not more than knee deep. That was created. As I already 5 km was on the road, Rolf reported that the backhoe operator with the machine has arrived would be. He had with him also identified that we get some diesel from him, because we had moved a lot more miles than planned. The excavator Fidi advance and only one on the train - so we reached a point where nothing would be left without special machinery. A dam of about 2 km every 200 m of water courses interrupted. Everything had to first be built up. At the end, two cars were in the water, the driver probably had finally lost patience and wanted to get out of here. It had obviously not been successful. The excavator had to first remove both from the awkward situation. A bunch of people were arguing and gesticulating around everywhere. At last the way was open for Tortel. First, the machinery then Fidi drove first in Tortel. Surprised faces everywhere. Questions, questions on the situation. We had not long time and wanted to find our guests . Rolf instructed the Carabinieros and I went with the radio on to the village all the steep stairs one thousand. Tortel I knew him and maschierte directly to the restaurant where we had been eating forever. The owner recognized me immediately. He phoned around and found our guests according to my description, and the name. Rolf sparked by almost the same time that the Carabinieros would have been equally successful. So we all met again in the parking lot. Given everything back, we moved immediately towards Cochrane, for when the rain comes again, we would be stranded here again.
We were informed that the critical points on the Rio Baker would have to happen now without problems, but it would be yet another piece to the north be flooded street, but where the construction crew producing a Notpassage. In the excavator operator, we then have fueled the lack of liters of diesel and we were on the road. Everything went smoothly, the rain had stopped, the missing piece of road was made again and we reached Cochrane evening by 18 clock.
Here we learned that the road would continue north also interrupted and the whole Carretera Austral towards Coyhaique had been flooded by several rivers. The road builder would repair but on the ground.
The next morning, we then learned at the gas station that the volcano Chaiten had broken out again and had reached the plume again Futaleufu, Trevelin and Esquel. The pass would be closed. Anyway, we had planned a mountain pass to the south. On the road to Coyhaique, the traces of the floods were still visible everywhere. In Palena, where we went back to Argentina and described in Corcovado on the Argentine side are the people who like it dark within 1 hour as the night would become.
The tour could proceed as planned, the volcano had calmed down, rain was no longer in sight.
Again strikes in Argentina - this time it's the teachers
No sooner had we said goodbye to our guests in Puerto Madryn, waiting for the next surprise for us.
Already from the papers we have learned that the teachers want more pay. Even for 1 month were apparently repeated demonstrations in the provinces of Buenos Aires, Rio Negro and Neuquen instead. They claim 400 pesos more minimum basic wage. But the government wants none of it. There were still offered it, 200 pesos more but so that the teachers do not give satisfaction. It is now threatening that the strike is declared across the country.
We have already made on our first route towards Mendoza with the striking lecturers acquaintance, because they had blocked the entire Route 3 and 22 at several locations. Where did we come to the locked office of Ruta 3 at Sierra Grande, the police told us that we had to wait here, the road would be locked. We saw, however, a local truck driving along a dirt road. We can too. The small dirt road had too little attention paid to the teachers, no one from the strike ends quickly enough to the site. We quickly cleared away the stones and Fidi sprinted by. Bewildered faces looked after us. When re-bending on the asphalt road are the police still had extra clean and wished us a good trip. The truck line had already been building up to several kilometers. Fidi came through once again! The second barrier (several hours later) in the valley of the Rio Negro (Alto Valle) was at Villa Regina, fortunately being disbanded, and only the remains of burning tires and a giant tent camp testified of this nonsense and bustle. Trucks with goods from the valley of fruit (an important export item) stood for hours in the scorching sun at about 30 degrees. (Teachers should actually show a little more intelligence). Accidents involving tired drivers were irritated and can be seen all along the route. It did reign a senseless nervousness on this route. Unfortunately, once on the route on the way, this because the locks are no longer leave. Back to School would have been found, however, because of the strike does not take place naturally. The third barrier was broken, fortunately. We drove up into the night, because every time the locks will be restored. For the week before Easter (Semana Santa) will hinder the teachers all tourist traffic.
Breakdown: Faulty
1 plates, a V-belt tensioners, a ruptured seal in the fitting of diesel return line
Next report follows the end of May 2009.
more pictures from June on our homepage.
Saludos - Bea & Rolf - the fidibusteam
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